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24 Feb 2025

One of my favourite buildings: Barry Mill

Written by Philip Long, Chief Executive of the National Trust for Scotland
Bluebells grow in a field in the foreground, with red-tin-roofed Barry Mill in the background. It is a sunny day with a deep blue sky.
Barry Mill, near Carnoustie in Angus
Philip Long has been Chief Executive of the National Trust for Scotland since 2020. Previously he was founding Director of V&A Dundee (from 2011), and prior to that Senior Curator at the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, where he specialised in the history of Scottish art and design.

When I saw Barry Mill (to the west of Carnoustie in Angus) and its beautiful setting for the very first time, it seemed strangely familiar. In the same way that William Gillies’ watercolours of the Borders landscape open our eyes to its subtle beauty, so do the Dundee-born artist James McIntosh Patrick’s depictions of the Angus countryside from the 1930s onwards. I once organised an exhibition of Patrick’s work – his much-loved scenes of the rolling Scottish landscape are most distinguished when they have at their heart vernacular farm and rural buildings, the homesteads of a way of life that had continued for centuries. The living scene at Barry Mill feels as if his art has been enacted.

Although I do not know whether McIntosh Patrick painted Barry Mill (he certainly painted other mills in the surrounding countryside: at Arbirlot and Rossie Priory), to first see it is to be reminded of that artist’s bucolic vision of the Angus countryside. Barry Mill is picturesquely situated in a deep and wooded den through which the Pitairlie Burn flows. It is a tall L-shaped stone structure with a pitched stone-slate roof, projecting extensions at a lower level on two sides (the lowest containing its working wheel), and on its north a circular kiln for drying oats rising to almost its full height. The building’s overall external appearance – plain with small, deep-set windows – and especially the apse-like form of its adjoining kiln, gives it something of the appearance of a Romanesque chapel as seen in Leuchars in Fife, and Dalmeny to the east of Edinburgh. 

A view of Barry Mill and its rounded kiln from across a lush green meadow in spring.

Like a rural Scottish kirk, Barry Mill would have been of prime importance in the surrounding community’s life for centuries. And so it is intriguing that its architectural form, the consequence of its practical function to provide sustenance, bears similarities. Mills are understood to have been at the site since at least the 16th century, when the Reformation caused the land to be transferred from the ownership of the Cistercian monastery at Balmerino, but the current Barry Mill is probably the result of a reconstruction after a serious fire destroyed its predecessor in 1814. 

For many years it was known as the Over Mill, until the Nether Mill, situated a short distance downstream, was demolished in the 1960s. Surviving between the sites and crossing the burn is a charming small bridge of 1775, with a quaintly carved ploughman on the key stone. The bridge’s low parapets apparently allowed the axels of replacement mill stones to pass over as they were rolled up from the coast, often having begun their journey in France where a quarry outside Paris provided the hardest-wearing burr stone. Barry Mill continued producing animal feeds and oatmeal until 1984, when flooding damaged the lade and it became derelict.

In 1988, in recognition of its remarkable human heritage (including that of ‘thirlage’ or bondage to the mill of the surrounding tenants) and the increasing rarity of operational mill buildings, it was acquired by the National Trust for Scotland and gradually restored by our charity. Most recently, made possible by a single generous donation in 2023, further renewed efforts have been made by the dedicated mill team, led by Michael Metcalfe, to bring it back to full working order. 

Keeping the wheel turning at Barry Mill

Externally, the mill lade and its mechanisms have been repaired, and the building stonework made good. Inside a remarkable experience awaits. Rising through three floors is the milling machinery, from the heavy water-wheel mechanism at the lowest level, to the mill wheels above and range of supporting machinery, including hoppers, fanners, elevators, sieves and a sack hoist for handling the heavy bags of grain. All are driven by the same single source of waterpower through a mechanism involving gearing, pullies, and drivetrains constructed out of wood and iron – it never fails to delight through its ingenious design and clattering sound. This spring it will once again, after very many years, be able to produce flour.


Barry Mill opens on 1 March 2025 – please check opening times in advance of your visit.

Looking down the narrow water channel that leads into Barry Mill. The mill has a bright red tin roof.

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