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13 Aug 2024

Braving the elements to protect St Kilda kirk

Written by Devan LaBrash
Repairing St Kilda kirk

Transcript

Three speakers: Clare Henderson, archaeologist; Tyrone Oakley, Laing Traditional Masonry; Sue Loughran, ranger


Clare
One of the really exciting things that we've got happening this season on the island is that we're finally in a position where we can undertake some very much needed repair work to the kirk.
It's suffered quite a lot with wind and weather damage, the usual attrition of age on a building.
So, what we're planning to do this summer is we're going to fully strip and re-slate the roof and do a lot of the external repair work to make the building wind- and water-tight again.
The roof was actually last done quite recently in the 1970s by the Ministry of Defence, but it was previously repaired in the late 50s when the Trust acquired St Kilda.

Every element that makes up the landscape of St Kilda contributes to the legibility of the story of people's life on the island.
What survives, that we manage, a large quantity of it is ruinous.
We have some structures that have been roofed or that are in use but very few of them retain a lot of the character that the St Kildan community would have known.
The church and school room are quite exceptional in that, because those interiors have never been modernised or altered, bar very small touches.
When you go into the church, you get the sense of the building as they would have experienced it.
And I think that's very powerful for the visitors.
In terms of the island itself, any account you read will talk about the importance of faith to the St Kildan community.
And so I think making sure you're appropriately caring for and preserving their kirk is a very big part of our responsibility on the island.

When you deal with a historic building in an old structure, the way that it was constructed originally and the tools that were used and the materials all contribute to the way that the building appears and the way that it ages.
Times move on and materials change, but when you're then repairing a building like that, it's very important that you try as far as possible to work with the same materials and therefore the same skills.
Having the craftspeople who are able to come out and work with that type of building is exceedingly important.
The fewer of these buildings that survive, the harder it then becomes to sustain and support that craft.
With a building like the church and a lot of the work we do on St Kilda, details down to the exact type of sand and lime mix that you use, the colour of the slates, the way that they're nailed -- every last little detail is, as far as we can, the way that it would have been done originally.
That is the best and most appropriate way to maintain those buildings.


Tyrone
I think the reason it's so important to use traditional methods on a building like this, when it's a Scheduled Monument, is just out of sympathy to the building.
It needs to remain traditional throughout and not have any modern interferences so that the archaeology is correct going forward. You're still looking at the same building.
We use more or less the same tools as they would have used when the various crafts were first done, but just modern adaptations of these tools.
The company I work for is great because you would expect these traditional crafts to be done by dusty old men in boiler suits, but we've got a lot of youngsters that work for us.
I'm actually one of the older ones now! I've worked for LTM for 11 years and I'm one of the old heads now, but it wouldn't be the same in a lot of other traditional conservation companies.
In stonemasonry companies around Scotland, the craft is really dying out, but we have a young squad so we've got a lot of hope for the future of traditional skills.

St Kilda is a special place and I didn't really realise ... I've worked on many islands with the company ... I didn't realise how in touch with the culture of the people who used to live there you feel when you're here.
You really feel like you're walking on top of their footsteps, more so than other places I've been.
It's a special place.


Clare
Everything that you do on St Kilda requires a much longer lead-in time, and a lot more thought in terms of the logistics of getting the personnel and the materials on site.
Because, especially for a project of this magnitude, where you're talking full-height scaffolding and large quantities of heavy materials like slates.
We basically started at least 12 months ago to plan the dates that we could get those deliveries out here, on the landing craft runs and then to get the people on site.
And then it's just ... you're in the hands of fate with the weather beyond that.


Sue
This is a really important project for us and it wouldn't be possible for us to do the repair work to our kirk without the help of the following funders.
Thank you so much for your help.
We hope to have our church back to its former glory very soon. Thank you.

Gales, rough seas, nesting birds and the risk of non-native species arriving are just a few of the challenges National Trust for Scotland staff and contractors have faced during work on a major project to conserve the St Kilda Kirk, as its 200th anniversary approaches.

Extensive repairs to the roof and the replacement of gutters are urgently required in the first phase of conservation, to make the kirk and adjacent school building watertight and windtight. However, this is a location where peak winds can reach 144mph. Due to St Kilda’s location in the North Atlantic, the islands face gales approximately 75 days a year, with the recent Climate Vulnerability Index assessment for St Kilda showing that storms are likely to become more frequent and more severe as a result of climate change.

With support from Historic Environment Scotland (HES) grant funding, the project to weather-proof and conserve the kirk is being managed by the National Trust for Scotland. Specialist contractors Laing Traditional Masonry have been working on Hirta over the summer, making the building more resilient to the effects of climate change while retaining its historic character.

In addition to the support from HES, this first project phase, costing over £200,000, has been made possible through funders including the St Kilda Club, the NTS Foundation USA, the Noble Caledonia Charitable Trust and McCorquodale Charitable Trust.

The St Kilda kirk was constructed in 1827–28, to Robert Stevenson’s 1826 design, after visiting minister Rev Dr John Macdonald commented that the islanders were ‘ignorant of the leading truths’ of Christianity. Ministers and missionaries had visited St Kilda since the 18th century, but the first resident minister was the Revd Neil Mackenzie, who lived there with his wife and family from 1830–44.

After the last islanders left St Kilda in 1930, the kirk fell into disrepair, but it was restored by the Trust in the 1970s. Marking the 50th anniversary of the evacuation, the kirk was re-dedicated at an interdenominational service in August 1980.

Susan Bain, the National Trust for Scotland’s Property Manager for St Kilda, said: ‘The National Trust for Scotland is privileged to care for and share St Kilda’s natural and cultural heritage, including the kirk and school, but our stewardship also brings with it great practical complexities. The project to repair the roof and replace the rainwater goods of the kirk not only requires specialist heritage conservation expertise and skills, but also involves a gruelling logistical marathon.

‘Even transporting the materials for the project has taken months in planning, with initial shipment to storage in South Uist needed in good time for transfer to a landing craft, which sails when sea conditions are right. The materials are all checked prior to loading and during the voyage for signs of non-native rodents, and the vessel is also inspected before anything is landed on St Kilda. Working in a dual World Heritage Site has its challenges, and noise must be kept to a minimum to avoid disturbing wildlife or visitors.’

Quote
“While the church and school are not open to visitors for the duration of the work, visitors can see traditional skills in action and a key building made safe for the future.
We’re grateful for the resourcefulness, attention to detail and resilience of our contractors, staff and volunteers who are making this work possible.”
Susan Bain
Property Manager
The small church building on St Kilda, surrounded by scaffolding.

Clea Warner, Highlands & Islands Regional Director at the National Trust for Scotland, added: ‘The kirk and school are a key focal point on St Kilda, offering an evocative window into its social and cultural history in the 1800s and early 1900s. They’re an integral part of the archaeology of St Kilda and remain an important place of reflection for the islands’ visitors and people who work on St Kilda, surviving not just time and climate but other challenges such as a U-boat shelling in May 1918.

‘The conservation of their fabric and history – along with St Kilda’s wider landscape and heritage – is vital work for the Trust, as we deliver our Nature, Beauty and Heritage for Everyone strategy. We are profoundly grateful to our members and supporters, along with HES, the St Kilda Club, the NTS Foundation USA, the Noble Caledonia Charitable Trust, and McCorquodale Charitable Trust, whose generosity has made this project possible. With the kirk watertight, we can then embark on raising funds to secure the second phase of conservation, which will focus on the interior of the kirk, repairing timber and plasterwork and refurbishing it to its former glory. The support of funders, philanthropists and others will once again be vital in making this possible.’

Wooden pews face the altar in a small church building.
Inside the church on St Kilda

Dr Susan O’Connor, Head of Grants at HES, said: ‘St Kilda has a distinctive story to tell in Scotland’s history, and these buildings are testament to a unique way of life. HES grant funding in this case is helping to conserve not only the tangible fabric of the kirk and school buildings, but also to safeguard the island’s invaluable cultural heritage, ensuring that its stories and significance continue to be shared with the world.’

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A view of a large cleit (a stone-built structure used for storage) on a hillside on St Kilda. >