Stitching a living: dressmaking in late Victorian Glasgow

The dressmaking trade provided many women with financial independence, particularly those who were single or widowed. Dressmaking, like many other roles in the textile industry, was often a family business shared across different generations. Mrs Toward (who lived at the Tenement House) and her family embody this connection. Their history intertwines with the development of Glasgow’s dressmaking industry in the second half of the 19th century. Several women in the family were involved in dressmaking, including Mrs Toward, her mother, Helen Reid, and her sisters-in-law Helen, Marion and Jane. All were either widowed or unmarried.

During this time, there was a shift from private dressmaking to the rise of workshops and factories as ready-made clothing became more popular. This change impacted women in Glasgow, especially those working in the city’s central district. Private dressmakers who catered to middle- and working-class customers earned modest wages. They worked under challenging conditions, often working long hours and receiving irregular pay. For instance, one well-made dress required the efforts of three workers and took over two days to complete.

In 1900, Margaret Irwin, the secretary of the Scottish Council for Women’s Trade, conducted detailed research over several years about the conditions of female workers in Glasgow in the tailor and dressmaking trades due to their importance and impact on the city. She noted that starting as a dressmaker in a shop required financial investment, as many apprentices worked for the first year of their training without pay. Not every family could afford this. 

Dressmakers were also expected to maintain a higher standard of dress than factory workers despite receiving similar or even lower wages, as this had a positive impact on their business. Irwin reported that many dressmakers spent much of their income on clothing and fabrics and were left with little money for essentials like food and lodging. As a result, many women working in the trade lived in poor conditions.

Despite these challenges, the dressmaking profession continued to thrive, particularly for women from more comfortable backgrounds. As the demand for dressmaking grew, schools dedicated to teaching the craft were established, particularly in areas like Sauchiehall Street, near major department stores.

The Toward family was deeply involved in the Glasgow dressmaking trade. Mrs Toward’s mother, Helen Reid, was a dressmaker. Helen’s business card, preserved in the Tenement House archive, reveals that she operated a dressmaking and millinery shop at 57 Hanover Street. Archival records don’t mention her at this address. However, we know that other dressmakers were working at this location, so it’s possible Mrs Reid worked for them. The Post Office directories list her business at different addresses between 1865 and 1879, suggesting she may have worked at multiple locations.

Helen Reid’s daughter, Mrs Agnes Toward, likely learned the trade from her mother. Though no public records exist of Mrs Toward’s work before or after her marriage, it’s clear from items in the Tenement House archive that she was involved in the textile trade. Her sisters-in-law, Helen, Marion, and Jane Toward, were also dressmakers. The 1901 census records show that they lived at 108 Allison Street, an address that appears on a business card found in the archive. This suggests that Mrs Toward may have worked from home, assisting her sisters-in-law in their dressmaking business.

By 1905, Mrs Toward had opened her own shop at 356 St Vincent Street. Initially, her shop sold drapery, but by 1908, it had transitioned to selling hosiery and small wares. This refers to a shop that sells socks, tights, stockings and narrow pieces of fabric such as ribbons, braids or tapes. These small family-run businesses were common during this period, but they started declining as department stores began to rise in prominence. Mrs Toward’s shop faced financial difficulties, with records indicating that she owed money to several suppliers. Despite these struggles, she continued to operate her business, and her shop remained in business until 1912. She then sold her stock to cover the debts she had.

Interestingly, the Tenement House archive contains a dressmaking business sign associated with Mrs Toward, though it’s unclear when it was made or where it was located. The sign’s phrase ’no fitting required’ may refer to a cutting system developed by Michael Müller in 1891, which allowed for quicker garment production. This system could have given Mrs Toward a competitive edge against the growing department stores, allowing her to produce garments more efficiently.

The Toward family’s involvement in dressmaking provides a glimpse into the working conditions of women in Glasgow at the turn of the 20th century. While financial challenges and poor working conditions were common, the resilience of women like Mrs Toward and her family members shows how they adapted to and navigated these difficulties. Her story is a testament to the significance of dressmaking in the city’s history and its role in providing financial independence for women during this time.