Stitching the past

This jacket took eight people two years to complete. The volunteer needleworkers meet once a week and have already produced a number of bed and wall hangings for Culross.

The coordinator of the group, June McAleece, has explained the thinking behind this jacket. Her words speak volumes about the care, attention and detail that goes into producing these crewelwork embroidered textiles.

ALA: Why did you choose this jacket?

JM: We decided to produce items of clothing and accessories that the ladies of the household might have sewn for themselves. An embroidered jacket was chosen – its design reflects the fashion of the time, focusing on floral decoration and colourful scroll designs.

ALA: Where did you find inspiration?

JM: Our jacket is modelled from an example found in the Burrell Collection in Glasgow. As the Burrell specialists have noted, these jackets are very rare as very little 17th-century costume has survived.

ALA: How did you make this jacket?

JM: As there are several pieces to the pattern, many people could work on it at the same time. Each stitcher was allocated motifs, and the various pieces were passed round until all the flowers had been completed.

The scrolls were then worked in heavy chain with perle cotton and a metallic thread. The last stitches were ‘thorn’ stitch round the inner and outer areas of the scrolls.

A silk lining was made and both lining and jacket assembled with hand stitching.

ALA: What did you use to do the jacket up?

JM: Hooks and eyes were put in place for the fastenings; we button-holed over the metal areas to keep everything in place when the jacket was fastened.

This jacket, fit for a lady of notable standing, is on display in the principal stranger’s bedchamber at Culross Palace. Thank you to the Culross needlework volunteers and to all those who give their time and energy to the National Trust for Scotland.